Paris Moda Haftası: Yohji Yamamoto İlkbahar/Yaz 2026

Üç yıl önce bu zamanlar, mimarlık öğrencisiyken bir workshop dersinde Yohji Yamamoto için bir defile mekanı tasarlıyordum. Bugünse aynı tasarımcının defilesine dair yazı yazmak… Sanki hayatın kendisi ince ince örülmüş bir kurgu gibi ve bu defile hem Yohji Yamamoto’nun hem de hayatın bir tür manifestosuydu.

Yohji Yamamoto, Paris Moda Haftası’nda dikkat çekici bir sakinlik içinde karşımıza çıktı. Gösterişli sunumların, dijital dünyanın hızlı tüketimine hizmet eden anların aksine bu defile daha içe dönük ve kişisel bir deneyim sundu. İzleyicilere koltuklarına bırakılan bir notla, defileyi telefon yerine gözleriyle izlemeleri istendi. Yamamoto’nun dünyasında detayları yakalayabilmek için gerçekten gözlerin açık olması gerekiyordu.

Koleksiyonda Batı terziliğinden Japon estetiğine, kültürel referanslı giysilerden kaligrafiye kadar pek çok referans bir aradaydı. Asimetrik yakalar, dikiş yerlerinden fırlayan zarif detaylar ve ustalıkla şekillendirilmiş drapeler Yamamoto’nun teknik bilgisini ve estetik anlayışını yansıtıyordu. Renk paleti yine sadeydi: siyah, beyaz ve kırmızı… Japon kültürüne özgü bir dengede.

En dikkat çekici parçalardan biri, üzerine Giorgio Armani’nin İlkbahar/Yaz 2026 defilesi davetiyesinin basıldığı sade bir parçaydı. Armani’nin 50 yıllık kariyerine saygı duruşunda bulunan Yamamoto, defilenin kapanışına iki görünüm daha ekledi. Biri, önünde Japonca kaligrafi, arkasında Shalom Harlow’un 1998 Armani kampanyasından bir görüntüyle, diğeri ise Kristen McMenamy’nin 1997’deki ikonik smokinli pozu ve Armani defilesi davetiyesiyle tamamlanmıştı. Bu göndermeler bir veda değil, daha çok bir kutlama gibiydi.

Yohji Yamamoto İlkbahar/Yaz 2026, Launchmetrics Spotlight

Yamamoto’nun gösterileri her zaman yavaş, sade ve düşüncelidir. Fakat hiçbir zaman tekdüze değildir. Bu sezon da farklı değildi. Giysiler hem bedenin geçiciliğine hem de tasarımın kalıcılığına dair sessiz ama güçlü bir hikaye anlattı.

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